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The Eugster diagonal route, one of many routes on the North face of Aiguille du Midi. This route particularly I can easily see from my balcony in les Bossons.

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We started the climb from Plan de l’Aiguille at 03.10 o’clock. The snow wasn’t correct refrozen but not too bad either. It took seven hours to climb up to Aiguille du Midi. I think you can easily climb it on five hours if you're just two climber in a pair(we were 3+2).

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From the beginning our ambition was to climb the Carli-Chassagne gully but we heard it was to dry for the moment.

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There was some interesting mixed pitches in the middle of the diagonal couloir.

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The “Demi-lune”, the point where Eugster meet up with the Mallory route.

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The final slopes up to Aiguille du Midi.

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It was three icy pitches at the top with hard, almost black ice.

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Kevin and Romain straight under the Cable car.

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Some years it’s easier to traverse left to avoid the icy sections at the top but right now the crevasses are too big and the seracs to dangerous. We climbed straight up.

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Me and Jacob under the bridge just about to climb the last 50m to the East Ridge. From Plan de l’Aiguille its 1480 vertical meter to the top of the East ridge.