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We were lucky with the weather on our trip to Pain de Sucre. At 09.00 o’clock we had nothing but rain, strong winds and whiteout. We went up to Midi and grabbed a coffee, after a while we decided to give it a try…

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The Midi-Plan ridge was already tracked by us two days earlier so the access went really quick(1h45min). On this photo you can see Aiguille du Plan on its left and the access couloir on the right.

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Andreas on his way up.

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Just before the rappel on the Midi-Plan traverse you turn right and descend between the rocks and the serac. Make a long traverse left to reach the couloir.

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Arne Backstrom on his way up. Arne is from US but has relatives back from Sweden. He's a viking for sure;)and a damn good skier.

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Turn left 2/3 of the couloir and climb some easy mixed ground; you arrive to this little col. It’s possible to access the face from the right side as well but it’s more difficult and exposed.

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We did one 60m rappel(cornice then ice). The route is short but steep, 50°-55° for 500m.

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Just after the rappel. The snow was perfect!

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First descent by Pierre Tardivel, 1 June, 1990. First snowboard descent by Jérôme Ruby and Dédé Rhem(on ski, first repetition), 3 June 1990. Without rappel, Emmanuel Ballot 2 May 1994.

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Just after this passage there was a little crux which I got through with a short handrail of 1-1.5m. Andreas and Arne jumped it. You’re allowed to use handrail if you’re father of two kids Andreas said, Arne agreed. Thanks a lot guys!

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Andreas is happy! Yes, I was happy as well, this is a hell of a ride and it’s so close to the Aiguille du Midi lift station. Ok, you have to make sure about the conditions before you head off. Its north facing and you don’t want to get stucked with bare ice on the descent. But if you know it’s good and you’re a motivated and ambitious skier, you have no excuse not to go here, a future Chamonix steep-ski classic for sure…