Tobias Granath - a Chamonix photo diary
2009/05/25 – Mont Blanc, West face direct

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This route was first descended by Stefano De Benedetti in September, 1980. Fantastic descent that we managed to do in one day by grabbing the first cabin from Chamonix at 08.10 o’clock.

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Climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route. We were at the top of Tacul at 10.00 o’clock.

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We summited 13.00 o’clock. It appeared to be the perfect time to start the descent also. The snow was perfectly melted so we could go down quick and safe. You really have to be well acclimatized if you want to do this in one day. The altitude is 4810m and you feel it! I struggled the last hour to reach the top.

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Going down the big snowfields on the west face. Behind you can see Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête and the North/East couloir of Petit Mont Blanc on your left.

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The slope is not very steep but sustained 45°-50°. The face is over 1000m vertical meter high.

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Was quite obvious to find the entrance to the Benedetti variant if you study the topo well before. Normally you have to make a short rappel but we find a way through the rocks little bit lower down on the left side of the couloir.

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Looking up the face from below. You can also see the Domenech/Jaccoux route on your right.

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Some really nice rock…

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Going down direction to the Quintino Sella hut. Can you see the hut?

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From the hut I can really recommend you to ski down the West couloir down to the Dôme Glacier direction Gonella hut. Going down the Mont Blanc glacier is not recommended(seracs, crevasses).

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The Traverse of the Dôme glacier was quite demanding, lots of sick-sacking through crevasses.

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The Gonella hut. We took the path from here. Nice little walk!

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The Miage glacier is long and flat. Make sure your skis are well waxed!

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Walking…

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The walk is long and beautiful!

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We hitch hiked with the staff of the Monzino hut. Saved us probably one long hour. The back of the truck was comfortable and we were happy. Thanks a lot guys! Also a big hug to Felix who picked us up at the tunnel, thanks buddy.

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