Rock - Snow - Ice - Mixed
2009/11/01 – Matterhorn, Lion ridgeAfter a fast recovery from our South ridge climb at Aiguille du Moine we headed out to Cervinia. The walk/climb from the village to Refugio Carrel is 1800 vertical meters and it took us 4h45min. |  |  |
2009/10/30 – Aiguille du Moine, South ridgeThe day after our trip to Petits Charmoz we went up to the Couvercle hut with ambition to climb Aiguille du Moine by the classic South ridge. From Montenvers it took us 2h45min to reach the hut(+900m). We’re alone in the hut… | |  |
2009/10/28 – Petits Charmoz, traversePetits Charmoz is an easy and pleasant day trip climb. From the Plan de l’Aiguille you reach the summit in about four hour. | |  |
2009/09/14 NORWAY, Hurrungane – Austadbotntind, North CouloirAfter a good night sleep in our tent at Turtagrø we were ready again. The climb up to Vestre Austadbotntind was easy and nice. The ridge up to Store Austadbotntind was icy… | |  |
2009/09/13 NORWAY, Hurrungane - Midtre Dyrhaugstind, NordøstflankenNice little mountaineering weekend in Turtagrø, Norway with Mårten Pettersson and Henrik Westling. Beautiful mountains and perfect autumn sunny weather! | |  |
2009/06/29 – Aiguille du Peigne, Papillons ridgeClimbing the classic Papillons ridge with Andreas Fransson. Nice climb, not hard, just a short walk away from Plan de l’Aiguille(50min). | |  |
2009/05/30 – Aiguille du Midi, Mallory/Porter routeWe went from refuge Plan de l’Aiguille at 04.40am and summited at 09.40 o’clock. Clear weather until 08.00 o’clock then whiteout and windy, it even started to hail…no 80% sun meteofrance! | |  |
2009/05/06 – Aiguille Verte, Nant Blanc face, Charlet/Platonov routeThe historic and classic route on the Nant Blanc face. Charlet/Platonov route, TD. V 2, 4c M. 900m. | |  |
2009/04/24 – Aiguille Verte, Bettembourg/Thivierge gullyTaking a nice line on the North face of Aiguille Verte; Bettembourg/Thivierge gully. TD-, IV 4. 900m. | |  |
2009/04/15 - Les Courtes, Austrian routeThe Austrian on les Courtes is an interesting and varied North facing route. TD-, III, 1. 800m. | |  |
2009/04/13 – Pointe de Domino, Petit Viking gullyMe and Max went with the first Grands Montets cabin to climb Petit Viking, the ice climbing classic in the Argentière basin. | |  |
2009/04/05 – Aiguille du Chardonnet, Escarra gullyIt’s always a pleasure to climb Chardonnet. This time we headed to the Escarra gully. | |  |
2009/03/16 – Les Courtes, Swiss routeAfter about five hours of climbing on the North face of les Courtes by the classic Swiss route we arrived at the entrance of the south couloir. | |  |
2008/11/08 – Aiguille du Midi, Burnier-Vogler GullyMy last day climbing on Aiguille du Midi before winter season starts. It’s amazing how the Midi cablecar makes it so easy for climbers. This route for example, is accessible from the bridge… You can also access it from the Cosmiques ridge(rappels) like we did. Then you can get an idea about the conditions in the gully before you climb it. | |  |
2008/10/26 – Aiguille du Midi, Chèré CouloirKamikaze Sunday... Impressive 1000m ice route that is exposed to a serac for about 800m. Conditions in the gully where good, ice/polystyrene snow and the state of the serac is ok for the moment (my opinion, haven’t seen anything falling there for a long time). | |  |
2008/10/19 – Mont Blanc du Tacul, Lafaille GullySunday and another beautiful day on the Mountain. It was sunny and no wind. The condition was nice in the gully, polystyrene snow - easy to climb, but quite hard to protect… We didn’t use many screws along the 4 pitches we climbed. | |  |
2008/10/12 – Triangle du Tacul, Contamine-NégriWe had perfect conditions on Triangle du Tacul this sunny autumn day – not too cold, not too hot, not too many people… This route is quite easy, one little pitch right at the beginning that is about 65°. The rest of the route is snow/ice 50°-55°. We were alone on the Négri route but there were a lot of climbers at Mazeaud and Chèré. We descended by the Chèré gully with 6 rappels. Time data: Route itself, 1h45min, 375m. Aiguille du Midi-Triangle du Tacul- Aiguille du Midi, 5h in total, 620m. | |  |
2008/06/28 – Mont Blanc, Brenva Spur via the Güssfeldt variantThe conditions were great on our trip to Brenva. Hard snow with a short ice section at the top of the Güssfeldt couloir, then frozen hard snow on the ridge leading to the upper part. The section with seracs and the crevasses before reaching Col de la Brenva were also in quite good conditions. There were some route-finding difficulties at the serac section but over all it was in good conditions. (One month later, Sunday 27/7, there was a huge serac-fall here, phuu… | |  |
2008/06/25 - Aiguille du Chardonnet, Charlet-Bettombourg GullyThe conditions in Charlet-Bettombourg were not great but sufficient. The first pitch was little bit dry but the two later was good. The mixed section before the summit was good fun! | |  |
2008/06/22 - Gran Paradiso, North/West FaceGran Paradiso (4061m) is a beautiful mountain and from Rifugio Chabod there’s an elegant and quite straight forward line to the summit by the North/West face. This was my first time here and I will return for sure, it’s so close from Chamonix! | |  |
2008/05/10 – Aiguille du Midi, Eugster DiagonalThe Eugster diagonal route, one of many routes on the North face of Aiguille du Midi. This route particularly I can easily see from my balcony in les Bossons. | |  |
2008/04/28 - Mont Blanc du Tacul, Albinoni-Gabarrou gullyClassic ice-climb with an easy access. 500m vertical meters climbing, 300m snow-couloir 50-55 degrees, then 200m ice-gully 70-80 degrees(four pitches) and some mixted terrain at the end. Preferable is to spend the night before either at Cosmiques hut or at Aiguille du Midi. This route is very popular and crowdy!!! | |  |
2008/02/09 – Tour Ronde, Classic North faceTopo on two variants of the classic route up the North face. We climbed the steeper left one. First course after a long period of playing hockey, I was completely exhausted!! Anyway, it was a nice day in the mountains and after a good night sleep at the Requin hut, we continued up on Aiguille de l’Eboulement the day after.(see the ski-photo section) | |  |
2007/11/05 - Triangle du Tacul, Chèré gullyClassic iceclimb on the Triangle that is very busy. All the routes on the Triangle du Tacul are very accessible from the Midi station and serve as perfect training routes. This is "one day" routes thanks to the cablecar, but if you prefer to be alone on the route it's hardly recommended to spend a night at the Cosmiques refuge so you can start the climb before the rush begins. | |  |
2007/10/14 - Mont Maudit, Küffner ridgeThe Küffner ridge is a great hight altitude mixed route. You recieve splendid views over the Combe Maudit and the Brenva Cirque. It's not very difficult but never monotonous. | |  |
2007/10/08 - Aiguille du Plan, Midi-Plan ridgeWe had good frozen snowconditions, beautiful sun and no wind on our walk/climb to Aiguille du Plan. | |  |
2007/09/16 - Triangle du Tacul, Contamine-MazeaudGood conditions allowed us to spend a lovely Sunday on the Triangle. The Contamine-Mazeaud gives you about 350 vertical meters on ice and rock. | |  |
2007/09/02 - Dômes de Miage, Mettrier ridge intégraleConditions was perfect on our trip to Dômes de Miage. We climbed 600 vertical meters on rocks and 400 vertical meters on snow/mixed ground. | |  |
2007/08/05 - Aiguille Chardonnet, Migot spurSplendid mixed route that takes an elegant line up the North face of Aiguille Chardonnet. The descent(right) follows the traditional normal route. | |  |
2007/07/28 - Mont Blanc via Aiguille de BionnassayThis route is not very difficult, but the conditions need to be good. (nice weather, stable snow etc.) And of course: fitness and acclimatisation. | |  |
2007/07/27 - Dômes de Miage, traverseThe royal traverse: Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc. Three nice days on the mountain with my freind Anders from Sweden. Photos and reading from the two first days. | |  |
2007/07/15 - Aiguille de Rochefort, Arêtes de RochefortBetween Dent du Géant and Grandes Jorasses you have one of the most well-known ridges in the Alps, the Rochefort ridge. | |  |
2007/07/13 - Petite Aiguille Verte, normal routeThis is a easy course that you will manage to do before lunch. Take the Grands Montets cable-car and climb about 90 minutes. Voila, you're on the summit! | |  |
2007/07/01 - Aiguille du Chardonnet, Forbes ArêteClassic course with Matthieu and Max. The weather forecast announced a clair night and morning. Bad weather and thunderstorms was expected in the afternoon. When we started the climb at 02.00 I was not sure that the forecast was 100% safe.It looked almost overcast! Later on at the "bosse" the sky was clairing up... | |  |
2007/06/17 - Triangle du Tacul, Contamine-Grisolle routeIt really was a nice and perfect day until we recieved the message that three alpinist was buried under the snow on the normal route on Mont Blanc du Tacul. We were almost at the summit of the Triangle at this time and our planned descent down the North/West face and the Normal route didn't feel like a safe choice anymore... | |  |
2007/06/09 - Pointes Lachenal, TraverseMax, Kevin and I on our traverse of Pointes Lachenal. Very popular route near the Aiguille du Midi lift-station. | |  |
2007/06/05 - Aiguille du Midi, Mallory-Porter routePhotos on our attempt on Mallory. The conditions was to bad, wet snow up to our knees!! We went back after about 90min climbing. | |  |
2007/05/24 - Mont Blanc du Tacul, Couloir du DiableIt was the second time Henrik and I climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul(4248m) together. Quite physical climb but fun! | |  |
2007/05/23 - Aiguille d'Entrèves, North/East ridgeNice little traverse with Henrik. The summit is 3600 meters hight and you can easy reach it from Refuge Torino. You can also reach it from Aiguille du Midi by traversing the Vallé Blanche. | |  |
2007/05/19 - Mont Blanc du Tacul, Jager CouloirAfter several days with rain and snow, we finally received nice and stable weather. The Jager couloir was nice to climb, but to dangerous to ski(carton). We descended the North face instead. | |  |
2006/12/13 - Aiguille du Midi, Cosmiques ridgeFirst day on the mountain after several of month playing hockey. With Emil, Max, Matthieu and Didier. | |  |